Black-Eyed Beans, Winter Greens & Citrus with Despina Siahuli

This blog & recipe is by Despina Siahuli a cook and recipe developer from Athens, Greece. 

You can follow Despina's Substack here. 

(Mayromatika me Lahana) 

We haven’t seen the sun in London for I don’t know how long — but there’s something quietly beautiful about winter. Cold and rain make greens grow deeper, sweeter, more resilient. And then there are those zingy, juicy citrus fruits — so cherished and precious — that make everything taste fresher and brighter.

On a recent chat with Juli, she shared how even their olive oil shifts with the seasons:

“We see our olive oil as a living substance, shaped by each year’s weather, soil, and life in the grove — changing as it matures. Right now it’s at its sharpest, greenest, spiciest and most vibrant, perfect for lifting winter vegetables and adding a peppery kick to hearty greens.”

Juli and Tom have a rare generosity that shines through their oil. You feel the care, labour and patience in every drop.

This recipe marks the beginning of a new series and collaboration celebrating food made with love, using the beautiful Honest Toil extra virgin olive oil from Koroneiki olives. I’m starting with one of my absolute favourites: mayromatika me lahana,  black-eyed beans with greens.

Beans, greens and citrus, all bound together with the most delicious extra virgin olive oil. Black-eyed beans are often overlooked, but I adore them. They cook quickly (no soaking needed, though they become creamier if you do) and taste earthy and comforting. In London I usually find them in Caribbean or Turkish shops; on my last trip to Athens I brought back a couple of packets of native black beans produced in northern Greece. My local butcher in Athens also sources beautiful independent legumes alongside his meat. I love that so much. It’s an honest, generous reflection of how deeply Greeks care about their beans and pulses. 

This dish draws inspiration from a Pontic recipe, fasoulia me mavrolahana, where beans are gently cooked with dark, hearty greens. For the greens, I love cavolo nero or collards (often sold as spring greens here), but kale, Swiss chard, spinach or savoy all work. At this time of year, greens have a quiet sweetness that marries beautifully with Honest Toil’s peppery edge and the grounding flavour of the beans and their precious cooking liquid.

Traditionally, a little flour or cornmeal is added at the end to thicken the broth. A simple trick that gives body and a gorgeous golden hue. In my version, I’m skipping the cornmeal and leaning into citrus juices and zest. But feel free to add a tablespoon of cornmeal to the broth if you have some on hand. The flavour is wonderfully unique.

And if you’re cooking for kids (or spice-shy grown-ups), add a sweet dried guajillo instead of chilli, or just a pinch of paprika or mild curry powder (my mum’s favourite).

This is the kind of dish that only improves as it rests. Make extra. Tomorrow it becomes lunch. The next day, even better.

It’s simple, grounded food — but only as good as your ingredients.

Black-Eyed Beans & Greens
Serves 4, time 1hrs to 1 hrs and 30min

Ingredients

For the beans

250g good-quality black-eyed beans (or cook 500g and freeze half for another day — it’s worth it!) - No soaking needed, but they’ll cook faster and creamier if you do
2 large garlic cloves
2 large bay leaves (fresh or dried)
1 small dried chilli (optional — or a pinch of chilli flakes, paprika or mild curry powder)
4 tbsp Honest Toil, plus more to finish
Juice of 1 small lemon, to taste, zest before juicing
Juice of 1 small orange, to taste, zest before juicing
Salt

For the greens

1 medium onion (about 200g),  chopped
3 spring onions, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
250g winter greens (cavolo nero, collard, kale, Swiss chard or savoy), tough stems removed and leaves roughly chopped
Zest of 1 small lemon
Zest of 1 small orange
Small handful of herbs (parsley, dill, mint, any or a mix)

To serve: extra Honest Toil, lemon wedges, chopped spring or dried onion, chilli flake.

Method

1. Place the beans in a large pot, cover generously with water and bring to the boil. Boil for 10 minutes, then drain and rinse. Return the beans to the pot and cover with fresh water (about 6cm above the beans). Add the garlic, bay leaves, chilli or spices (if using), 4 tbsp Honest Toil and a few good pinches of salt.

Simmer gently for 40–90 minutes, topping up with kettle water if needed, until the beans are tender but still holding their shape. Once cooked, add the citrus juices to taste — start with half, then add more if you like. Stir well, taste, and adjust salt.

2. Prepare the greens. Heat 3–4 tbsp Honest Toil in a wide pot or deep pan. Add the onion, spring onions and garlic and cook gently for 7–10 minutes until soft and lightly caramelised. Add the citrus zest and cook for a minute, stirring constantly.

Add the chopped greens and herbs and let them wilt. Ladle in 3–4 ladles of bean broth (if your beans aren’t ready yet, just use the broth — no beans) and cook over medium heat for 5–7 minutes until tender.

3. Add the cooked beans with enough broth to generously submerge everything. Reduce heat to low and simmer for about 10 minutes, until you have a thick, cloudy broth and the beans and greens are beautifully soft.

Taste, season, add more citrus if needed, and drizzle generously with Honest Toil. Taste again. Let everything simmer for 1–2 minutes, then remove from the heat.

Serve with more Honest Toil, extra lemon juice and a pinch of chilli flakes if you like. You might also add a little more citrus zest or some chopped herbs. I often enjoy them simply, with just chopped onions (spring or dried), another squeeze of lemon and plenty of olive oil, Onions give a spicy, fresh note! If you’re feeling peckish, bread, olives or tinned fish are perfect alongside these beans.

Notes

• This improves with time — even 30 minutes of resting makes a difference. Next day is divine.

• Keep it mild for children and add spice at the table.

• Tomorrow’s leftovers make a beautiful salad: spoon over warm beans and greens, add more Honest Toil, citrus and herbs.

I love this soup bright, citrusy and peppery — where the olive oil isn’t just a finish, but a main ingredient.

Make it your own.